
Mara Ilie
Saxon Transylvania and the fortified church network. Brings the archive photographs.






Two or three villages in a day, with the people who still hold the keys. Lunch is at a farm, not a restaurant.
Two or three villages in a day, visited with the people who still hold the keys to the churches. Viscri is the one with the reputation, and it earns it, but the villages either side of it are quieter and often better.
A fortified church is not a castle. It is what a farming village built when it could not afford a lord — walls thick enough to hold everyone and their cattle for a fortnight. Most still have the bacon lofts inside.
At a farm, not a restaurant. Whatever is being cooked that day.
About ninety minutes north through the hills.
The white church, the walls and the bacon tower. We go up into the loft, which most visitors never do.
Included. Sit down with whoever is cooking. Tell us about dietary needs when you book and it is easily handled.
Quieter, with no coach park. This is usually the part people talk about afterwards.
Around five in the afternoon.

Saxon Transylvania and the fortified church network. Brings the archive photographs.
Yes, and it is a proper meal at a farm rather than a sandwich. Vegetarian is straightforward if you tell us in advance.
The last stretch to Viscri is unsurfaced and bumpy. It is fine in our vehicle but worth knowing if you get carsick.
We arrange it in advance with the keyholder. Occasionally somebody is at a funeral and we go to a different village instead.